Shoe-sewing machine.



E. E. WINKLEY.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED APR. 2. 1906.

No. 887,991. PATENTED'MAY 19, 1908.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

PATBNTED MAY 19, 1908.

E. E. WINKLEY. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 2, 1906.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

mm?" W wmllwvw- ERASTUS E. WIN liLEY, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

' Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 19, 1908.

Application filed Apri1 2, 1906. Serial No. 309,400.

shoes it is customary" to form a series of transverse cuts or slits in the under surface of the welt in order to permit the welt to be readily beaten out fiat so as to lie in substantially the plane of the insole.

To secure the desired result it is unneces-' sary to form slits in the welt throughout its length, it being usually necessary to slit the welt at the toe portion of the shoe only, although it is sometimes necessary or desir-' able to slit the welt at the junction of the shank and forepart.

The most convenient time during the manufacture of a shoe for slitting the welt is while the welt is being sewed to the upper and insole, as thereby the necessity for a separate hand operation after the shoe is sewed is avoided,- or the use of a welt slitting mechanism in the machine which prepares the welt or in the machine which beats out the welt, which mechanisms render said machines more complicated in construction and slower in operation. A welt shoe sewing machine has been devised provided with a, cutting mechanism adapted to form a series of-transverse cuts in the under surface of the welt during the sewing operation. In this machine, however, the cutting mechanism acts continuously so that the weltis provided with cuts throughout its entire length.

An object of the present invention is to provide means whereby, during the operation of sewing the welt to the u' per and insole, transverse cuts or slits may he formed in the under surface of the welt at certain portions of the shoe and omitted at others, as may be desirable or necessary.

Further objects of the invention are to provide a welt cutting mechanism of improved construction and mode of operation for use in shoe sewing machines.

With these objects in view, a feature of the present invention contemplates the provision in a welt sewing machine of a cutting mech- .tached to theshoe,

' mechanism illustrated in Fig. 1.

anism acting automatically as the shoe is sewed to form a seriesof transverse cuts in the under surface of the welt, and means for throwing the cutting mechanism into and out of operation. Broadly considered :"this ;-feature of the invention contemplates the provision of any suitable cutting mechanism constructed and arranged in any desired manner. In the preferred form of the invention, however, the cutting mechanism is arranged to act in advance of the needle, that is, on the side of shoe, so that the as thereby the manipulation of the shoe by the operator is not interfered with and the welt is rendered flexible so as to be more easily attached to the shoe.

Another feature of the invention contemlates the provision of a cutter adapted to orm a cut in the under surface of the welt and arranged to act on the welt during the movement of the welt guide away from the shoe. This arrangement of the cutter produces a simple construction which acts in an efiicient manner to slit the welt without materially adding to the complexity of the mechanism of the machine or interfering with the operation of the sewingdevices. This feature of the invention broadly considered is not limited to a construction in which the welt cutting mechanism is thrown intoand out, of operation.

In addition to. the features of invention above referred to, the present invention also consists in certain devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter-described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description.

The referred form of the present invention is 1 lustrated in the accompanying drawin s in which igure 1 is a view in insection, illustrating so much of a welt shoe sewing machine as is necessary to show the connection of the present invention therewith. Fig. 2 is a detail view in front elevation, partly in section, of the welt slitting Fig. 3 is a detail lan view illustrating the action of the welt s itting knife in slitting the welt, and Fig. 4 is a view 'in side elevation of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1 but looking in the op osite direction.

ith the exception of the welt slittingmechanism hereinafter described, the matheneedle away from the welt is out before it is at-\ side elevation, partly mount-ed to turn upon a supporting stud 15 v the rotation of the eccentric in the opposite cut the we t more readily, and to this end, in

' the corresponding parts of frame 11, and this slide is actuated by means chine illustrated in Figs. 1 and 4 is. substantially the same as the machine illustrated and described in the patent to French &. Meyer, No. 412,704, dated October 8, 1889, 1 indicatingthe curved hooked needle, 2 the needle guide, 3 the thread finger, 4 the looper, 5 the take-up, 6 the work rest, 7 the welt guide, and. 8 the reciprocating slide'upon' which the welt guide is mounted. These parts together with their actuating mechanism and all other parts illustrated on the drawings and not hereinafter-specifically referred to, are constructed and arranged to operate in substantially the same manner as the machine of the patent above referred to.

The welt slitting knife is indicated at 9 and consists of a blade secured to the outer end of a bar 10 and arranged so that, when the knife is in operative position, it engages the welt during the movement of the welt guide away from the shoe and cuts a slit in the welt obliquely disposed with-relation to the under surface of the welt; The weltguide is moved away from the shoe after the completion of each stitch, and thus, when the slitting knife is in operative position, a slit is formed in the welt at each operation of thestitch forming devices. To permit the welt slitting knife to be thrown into and out of "operation, the knife carrying bar 10 is mounted in a frame 1 1 which frame is supported at 12 in the main frame of the machine so as to be capable of" an angular movement'to move the knife 9 into and out of operative position. For imparting such angular movement to the frame 11 at the desired times during the operation of the machine, aneccentric 13 isprovided engaging a slotted strap projecting downwardly from the forward end of the frame 11' and thiseccentric is secured upon a sleeve 14 and 1 rovided at its outer end with a handle 16 w ich extends into a convenient position to be grasped by the operator. As will be obvious from inspection of Fig. 1, a rotation of the eccentric 13 in one, direction will act to raise the knife 9 so as to be out of the path of-movement of the welt during the downward movement of the welt and 'guide, and

direction will return the of movement of the welt. I

Preferably, ,an' endwise vibrating movement is im arted to the knife .9 to cause. it to knife into the path the construction illustrated in Fig. 1, the bar 10 is secured to or formed integral with a slide mounted to reciprocate in a guide way in the of a lever 17 pivoted at 12, one arm of which lever is connected to the slide by a pin and slot connection, and another arm of which is provided with a roll which is pressed against the periphery of a cam disk 18 on the main shaft of the machine by means. of a spring 19 connecting an arm 20 of the leverto the frame 11.'

p The nature and scope of the present invention having been indicated and a preferred form of the present invention having been 1 specifically described, what is claimed is 1. A welt shoe sewing machine, having,

in combination withs-the stitch forming devices, cutting mechanism acting automatically as the shoe is sewn to 'form a series of transverse cuts in the under surface of the in advance of the i out of operation during the continued operation of the stitch forming devices.

3. A welt shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a welt guide, means for moving the welt guide towards and from the shoe, and a cutter against which the welt is forced by-the welt guide during its movement away from the shoe arranged to form a transverse cutin theunder surface of the weft. I

4. A welt shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a.'welt guide, means for movingthe welt towards and from the shoe, a cutter acting when in operative position to form a cut in the under surface of the-welt during the movement of the welt guide away from the shoe, and means for moving the cutter into and out of operative position during the continued operation of the stitch forming devices.-

5. A welt shoe sewing machine, having, in

combination, stitch forming devices, a welt guide, means for moving the welt guide towards and from the shoe, and a vibrating cutter arranged to cooperate with the welt guide during its movement'away from the shoe to form a transverse cut in the under surface of the welt.-

In testimony'whereof I affix my in presence of two witnesses.

ERASTUS E. WINKLEY.

signature,

Witnesses FRED O. Fisn, FARNUMY F. Donsnr. 

